Twice Upon a Time In Mexico

Read part one here.

I was falling. I didn’t realize how tall the wave would be, or that I would have so much of a gut-in-my-throat sensation of free-fall. It was, dare I say, almost enjoyable.

The moment ended in a snap as I found myself falling sideways. I crashed into the wave head first, tumbling through the icy ocean water. The piece of rubber connected to my ankle at one end and the board at the other strained under pressure. The rubber-band effect that took place flung the board right at me, but it didn’t connect for I was tumbling too fast.

I was upside down, then right side up, then sideways. I felt my right shoulder smash into something – the ocean bottom? I was running out of breath and began to paddle with al my might. Was I even headed towards the surface? I couldn’t be sure. Then, just in time, my head popped out of the water and I gasped for air. I opened my eyes for a split second. Salt stinging them, I squeezed them shut again.

Just when I though I was free, a second wave pounded me. Tumbling again, this time I attempted to go limp until the churning ended. It didn’t help. I thought my body would snap in half from the tugging, the pushing, and the harshness of it all. Finally round two ended and I surfaced again. I didn’t have time to clear my eyes when I saw a third attack on its way. ‘I’ll duck under this one and let it pass,’ I thought.

I dove as far as I could. The rubber, still around my ankle, yanked back. I was free from the wave but the board wasn’t. As the wave consumed the board in one swallow, I was along for the ride. The pain seared hot on my ankle, but that was soon forgotten as my torso was driven into the ocean floor.

This pattern continued for what seemed like a long, long time. I surfaced; I tumbled; I gasped for air.

Finally, the seemingly relentless ocean began to subside and I found the time between battles grew longer. Eventually they fizzled and I found my footing on the sandy bottom of the 4 foot deep sea. My ankle burned, my shoulder throbbed, and a gallon of salt water sloshed in my head. I attempted to arrange my swimsuit, ignoring the pile of sand that sagged in my bikini bottoms. I knew there was no use. I’d gone to battle with the sea, and the sea won.

Scanning my surroundings, I realized that I had landed about a mile down from our area. I would have to walk back, there was no way I was headed back into the water after that.

“Amber! Amber!”

I looked into the water and saw Zack headed my way. He looked… untouched by the sea. I stopped and watched him. I couldn’t even lift my arm in a wave of acknowledgement.

“Amber! I’ve been calling your name for you for the last ten minutes! Are you ready to try again?”

“Are you kidding?” I sputtered, tossing the board onto the sand. “I just went ten rounds with the sea! I’m never surfing again!

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About Unladylike Behavior

I’m a 24-year-old living oxymoron, an adventurous bookworm who loves to dress up and play in the dirt. I grew up in a small town in the wine country of California, population 3,000, moved to Sacramento in 2010, lasted 6 months before I moved to a small town on the outskirts of Sacramento area, population 2,000. I write about my life with my own brand of humor. Some would look at the events I write about as mundane. I, however, look at these day-to-day happenings as humorous, wonderful little gifts just waiting to be polished.
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5 Responses to Twice Upon a Time In Mexico

  1. Alicia says:

    Wow, that’s just insane. How could he think you wanted to go again after he couldn’t find you for 10 minutes? Silly boy!!

  2. Lindsay says:

    I spoke too soon on the last post… Yup, pretty accurate to my one and only surfing attempt in Australia. Not as severe as that, but I am not a good swimmer, I was horribly sick and couldn’t breathe OUT of water at that point, much less UNDERwater. So I sat on the beach and watched all my friends give it a shot. It was awesome watching them all get better with each attempt and eventually ride the wave in, but I was content with my one attempt. Maybe sometime I’ll give it another shot.

  3. Yeah, this confirms what I’ve always known. I will never even attempt surfing. I’m sure my experience would result in my death. I almost died boogie-boarding last time, I cant imagine the horror of surfing. You’re amazing for even trying.

  4. Deidre says:

    Eek! I tried surfing once on just itty bitty waves in Australia it is so hard. and I am not a great swimmer it seemed terrifying. You’re very brave for trying at all!

  5. Jeanette says:

    Great story and boy do I feel your pain. After our little slam, dunks, and tumbling in Maui I have an healthy fear of entering and exiting the ocean. Your dad now has to hold my hand or I won’t even try. Or you ever going to try to surf again?

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